News Archive for April 2008


Ingredient Profile - Willowbark Extract

Willowbark Extract is a source of salicylic acid-like ingredients and is able to contribute effects similar to those seen from the synthetic acid. However, it has none of the drawbacks associated with salicylic acid - mainly irritation. Willowbark Extract is a safe way to get the benefits of a B-hydroxy acid without the risk of irritation.


Willow, of the family Salicaceae and genus Salix, is a common species in North America. The Black Willow (Salix nigra) tree, found in the eastern part of the North American continent, is famous for its dark brown, ridged bark. The fresh bark is rich in tannins and salicylic acid - like materials. The freshly prepared extract has been reported to have analgesic, antiseptic, astringent, anti-pyretic, and anti-inflammatory properties. Salicylic acid, has been shown to enhance skin cell turnover and this cell renewal is accompanied by a general improvement in the appearance of the skin. The smoothing effect results in a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. Salicylic acid is also known for its antimicrobial capabilities - it is used as a remedy for problem skin conditions.
 

Natural Willowbark Extract has been shown to possess potent in vitro antimicrobial properties. Efficacy testing has shown that the extract has activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes, two of the skin flora implicated in the formation of acne. When added to cosmetic formulations, the extract can also increase the cell renewal capabilities of cosmetic formulations.

Salicylic acid's superior exfoliation is thought to be attributed to its lipid solubility. It concentrates its exfoliation action in the lipid-rich outer layers of the skin, where the skin's natural rate of exfoliation reduces with ageing, causing a buildup of dry, dull skin flakes. Being comedcolytic, salicylic acid, a B-hydroxy acid, can penetrate within the pores which leads to its localizing more deeply in the skin. This could account for its observed higher level of irritation. If a product is thought to be too strong or is irritating to the skin, it will not be used as often.

In a Repeat Insult Patch Test, Willowbark Extract has been found to be non-irritating to the skin even at a level of 100%, equivalent to 10% synthetic salicylic acid.

Willowbark Extract is found in Willowbark Facial Exfoliant and Clarifying Blemish Control.